Frequently asked Questions
What’s the difference between these leather goods (i.e. full grain leather) and genuine leather?
“Genuine leather” sounds like a quality claim, in the trade it isn’t.
A hide has layers. The outer surface, called the grain, is the densest, strongest part. That’s where the fibers are tightest. We only use full-grain leather is that top layer with the natural surface left intact. Nothing is sanded off to hide scars, pores, stretch marks, or insect bites. Those marks are the hide’s history. They also mean the strongest fibers are still doing the work. Full-grain breathes, takes a burnish on the edge, and develops a patina: it darkens, softens, and looks better the more you use it. That’s what we cut our goods from.
Genuine leather is a legal label, not a grade. It only means “this came from an animal.” After the top is split off for full-grain and top-grain work, the leftover lower layers are weaker and more open. Those splits are often sanded, coated, painted, or stamped with a fake grain so they look uniform on a rack. The coating can peel. The core can crack. It rarely ages into character; it just wears out.
Quick way to tell them apart on a piece in your hands:
- Surface: full grain has variation — pores, slight tone shifts, the odd mark. Perfectly identical “grain” everywhere is usually printed.
- Edge: full grain is solid leather through the cut and can be burnished smooth. Coated split often looks layered or plasticky on the edge.
- Feel and smell: full grain has weight and an earthy hide smell. Heavily finished “genuine” often smells like coating.
- Aging: full grain darkens and gets richer. Coated genuine tends to flake or look tired.
We only use full grain because a tote, strap, or everyday piece should last years and look like it belongs to you, not like it came off a factory conveyor.
Why does full grain cost more than the “genuine leather” products at the big-box store?
You’re paying for the part of the hide that actually lasts, quality materials, long-lasting hardware, and for time at the workbench. A "genuine leather" (i.e coated split) tote can look sharp on day one and look tired in a season. A full-grain tote can still be in rotation years later. If the cheaper option is what the budget needs, that’s honest — just know what the label is describing.
What leather do you actually use?
We use a variety of full-grain leather from different animal sources such as goat, sheep, deer, water buffalo and cowhide. Our main leather source is cowhide, vegetable-tanned or a comparable traditional tannage depending on the piece. Veg-tan takes tooling, burnishing, and creates a deep patina.
We do not use any sort of bonded leather (scraps + glue) or split aka “genuine” in any of our products.
What is patina, and will my piece change color?
Patina is the combination of oils from your hands, sunlight, flex, and time. Full-grain leather darkens, the grain becomes more pronounced, and high-wear spots get a soft sheen. That’s not damage. That’s the hide recording use. If you want the piece to stay as close as possible to day-one color, keep it out of harsh sun and condition lightly. If you want it to look lived-in, carry it every day.
What hardware do you use?
Solid brass or stainless depending on the piece — rivets, chicago screws, buckles, and D-rings chosen for the load, not the cheapest bin. We don’t use mystery zinc that turns green in a year. If you have a metal preference (brass vs. nickel-look), ask.
How do I pick a strap length or tote size?
For guitar/bass straps: measure from the endpin to the horn (or both endpins) the way you actually wear the instrument, then add a little adjustment range. If you’re between sizes, go longer — you can always punch a new hole.
For totes: think about what you actually carry (laptop, lunch, gym shoes, tools) and whether you want it to sit under the arm or on the shoulder. If you’re unsure, send a photo of your current bag with a tape measure in the frame.
Will my bag or strap look exactly like the photos?
No two hides are identical, and that’s the point. Color, grain tightness, and small character marks vary from hide to hide and even across one side.
Photos show a typical piece from that leather, not a promise of a clone. If you need a specific look (fewer marks, a certain tone), say so in the order notes and we’ll pick the best panel we can.
Do you take custom orders?
Yes, within reason. Common custom work:
- Strap length, width, and hardware
- Tote size and pocket layout
- Initials or a simple stamp
- Thread color and edge finish
Complex pattern changes and one-off hardware take longer and may have a setup fee. Send dimensions, a sketch, or a photo of what you’re trying to match and we’ll tell you what’s realistic before you pay.
How long until it ships?
In-stock pieces typically leave within a few business days. Made-to-order work depends on the queue and the hide — often 1–3 weeks, longer for involved customs. We’ll give you a date when you order, not a vague “handmade takes time.”
Where are the goods made?
Cut and built in-house, one piece at a time — not drop-shipped from a catalog factory. That’s why lead times are real and why you can ask for a change before the knife hits the hide.
Is it waterproof?
No. Leather is hide. It resists a light shower better than fabric, but it is not a rain jacket. Prolonged soaking can stiffen it or leave water spots, especially on lighter veg-tan. If you commute in Florida storms, a brief wipe-down after you get inside is enough for most days. For dedicated wet-weather carry, we can talk about a waxed or oil-tanned option if we stock it.
How should I care for it?
Keep it simple.
- Wipe dust and everyday dirt with a barely damp cloth. Let it air dry.
- Condition a few times a year with a small amount of a good leather conditioner or a light coat of a quality leather cream/wax. Less is more — over-oiling can soften structure and darken the hide more than you want.
- If it gets wet, blot it, stuff the bag with paper so it holds shape, and dry it away from heat and sun.
- Avoid leaving it on a hot dashboard or in a damp trunk for weeks.
Full grain does not need a plastic “protectant” film. The hide is the finish. A little care and a lot of use is the whole program.
What if something fails?
If a stitch, rivet, or strap attachment fails from normal use and it isn’t from overload, abuse, or a modification we didn’t make, contact us with photos. We’ll repair or replace the failed part. Leather that is cut, burned, left in a flood, or used as a tow strap is outside that.
Natural marks, color shift, and creasing are not defects.
Do you offer returns?
Unworn, unused items in original condition can usually be returned within a set window (we’ll state the number of days on the product and checkout pages). Custom-sized or monogrammed pieces are generally final sale unless we made an error. Buyer pays return shipping unless we shipped the wrong item.